The Argentine coast is a vast region along the Atlantic Ocean in the east of Argentina. The coast harbors rich marine life and has protected areas to preserve this marine life and biodiversity. We drove from Rio Gallegos to Puerto Madryn, not quite sure what to expect beforehand. We took our time and sought out protected areas, sea lions, elephant seals, orcas, dolphins, penguin colonies, and many other seabirds. The diversity of marine life we encountered along the way is incredible, and that's why we're excited to share all the highlights we came across on this 1,500-kilometer route in this blog.
THE MARINE LIFE
Most marine life follows seasonal patterns related to their reproduction, migration, and food availability. If you want to spot specific animals along the coast, it's useful to consider the seasonal patterns of these animals.
PENGUINS
The most common penguin in Argentina is the Magellanic penguin. These penguins are, on average, 70 centimeters tall and can live up to 25 years. The breeding season for Magellanic penguins is from September to March. From September onwards, the penguins come ashore to find their mate and prepare their nests. Starting in October, the penguins lay eggs and take turns incubating them. They often lay two eggs, but usually, only one hatches. The young penguins are born in December and stay with their parents until January/February, becoming strong enough to survive on their own and ready for their first ocean journey. From March onwards, the rest of the penguins migrate to seek food in the ocean until the new breeding season begins. Penguins do not lead carefree lives and must make efforts to escape their predators both on land and in the water. Natural enemies on land include large birds, armadillos, pumas, and foxes, while in the water, they must be wary of sea lions, orcas, and sharks.
Another penguin species you can observe and admire in Argentina is the rockhopper penguin. This penguin stands out with its bright yellow crest feathers and red eyes. They are, on average, 50 centimeters tall and can live 15 years in the wild. As the name suggests, these penguins often nest on rocky coasts and cliffs, moving effortlessly over these uneven surfaces. The rockhopper penguin shares the same breeding season and natural enemies as the Magellanic penguins.
DOLPHINS
The most common dolphin in Argentina is the Commerson's dolphin, recognizable by its striking black-and-white color pattern, hence also known as the zebra dolphin. They are known for their playful behavior, acrobatic jumps, and frequent appearances along the coast and near boats. You can spot this dolphin throughout the year, but your best chance is in the middle of September, during the calving season.
SEA LIONS AND ELEPHANT SEALS
Sea lions and elephant seals can be seen along the coast of Argentina throughout the year! These marine mammals spend a lot of time in the water searching for food and are highly skilled swimmers, although they may appear cumbersome on land. The elephant seal is one of the largest marine mammals globally, reaching up to 6 meters in length. They are known for their enormous size and distinctive trunk-like snout. Sea lions can grow up to 3 meters in length, with a cone-shaped head and external ears visible on the sides of their heads. Both have their breeding season from September to March, making these months the best time to see them relaxing on beaches or rocky shores.
ORCAS
These impressive creatures can also be spotted along the coast of Argentina! Orcas are the largest members of the dolphin family and are considered one of the most intelligent and social marine mammals. They are renowned for their hunting techniques and their ability to collaborate in capturing prey. The spectacle of hunting orcas, referred to by researchers as "intentional stranding," can be witnessed in the Peninsula Valdes Nature Reserve in Argentina. As mentioned earlier, the breeding season for sea lions is from September to March, resulting in groups of baby sea lions playing in shallow water near the beach between February and April. In this hunting technique, orcas locate the sea lions and can distinguish between adult and baby sea lions through echolocation skills. They then intentionally beach themselves on the shore in a perfectly chosen wave, stun the baby sea lion with slaps on the water, and ride back into deep water with the sea lion in their mouth using a new wave.
WHALES
In addition to orcas, you can also spot whales from the Peninsula Valdes Nature Reserve and the area near the peninsula of Puerto Madryn. The best season to observe whales here is between June and December when various whale species visit the area for breeding and caring for their young. The most common whale is the southern right whale, which can grow up to 20 meters long!
For a conveniently downloadable overview of the periods during which each marine animal is visible, you can click on this link klikken for the complete guide.
HIGHLIGHTS
Along the Argentine coast, we have visited both well-known and lesser-known beautiful spots to observe diverse marine life. We immersed ourselves among the penguin colonies, snorkeled with sea lions, and witnessed the tricks of the Commerson's dolphin. At the locations listed below, we gained various unique experiences. However, some places are only accessible by private transport; we indicate in advance for each location whether it is easily reachable by bus as well.
PARQUE NACIONAL MONTE LEÓN
Accessible only by private transport
Our first stop along the coast is Parque Nacional Monte León. Established in 2004, the park aims to protect this unique ecosystem in the region. Before entering the park, you must register at the ranger station, located six kilometers north of Ruta 3. Park rangers are present between 09:00 and 17:00, providing information about the park, marine life, and answering any other questions you may have. They will record your information, and afterward, you can enter the park free of charge. For those with a tent or traveling in a camper van, the park also offers free camping spots just a stone's throw from the sea! These camping areas have picnic tables, a stone barbecue, and one toilet. In the park, there are two short hiking trails. We walked from the campsite to the trails and encountered guanacos and rheas along the way! The first two-kilometer trail leads to a large Magellanic penguin colony that has made nests on the beach among the bushes. The trail cuts through it, providing a unique experience to observe the penguins and their nests up close. The other 400-meter trail leads to a cliff where dozens of sea lions are relaxing and trying to navigate the rocks.
PUERTO SANTA CRUZ - PUNTA QUILLA Accessible only by private transport
This is one of those places that surprised us! We often use the "iOverlander" app during our van travels in South America, and we found this place on it. Every year, a penguin colony comes here to breed. We drove to the port gate where large boats were being loaded, and for a moment, we thought we were in the wrong place. Fortunately, the guard at the gate could assist us and informed us that you can only reach the colony at low tide. Therefore, it's wise to check in advance via Tideschart when the low tide occurs! Fortunately, it became low tide half an hour later for us, and we walked for about 40 minutes along the beach to the Magellanic penguin colony. The penguins walked right beside us on the beach and played in the water. It's a beautiful setting, and we were lucky that Commerson's dolphins also passed by this spot.
PUERTO DESEADO - ISLA PINGUÏNO
Accessible by public transport
Off the coast of Puerto Deseado lies Isla Pinguïno, an island within a protected nature reserve. Amid the remnants of an old factory that processed sea lion oil and an ancient lighthouse from the Argentine Navy, you'll discover a plethora of marine life. Magellanic penguins, sea lions, elephant seals, and numerous coastal and seabirds call this place home. Interestingly, you can also observe the rockhopper penguin here, a penguin species found in few places in South America. We booked an excursion with Darwin Expediciones and can truly recommend it. In just an hour, you sail with a small group to the island, and along the way, there's a good chance dolphins will curiously approach the boat. We spent a whopping three hours among the penguin colony, and our guide shared extensive knowledge about the island, addressing all our questions. Your visit to the island concludes with a lunch beside the sea lion and elephant seal colony before heading back.
How to get to Puerto Deseado? If you're traveling by public transport from the south to the north, you can take the bus from El Chaltén to Perito Moreno (the town, not the glacier). This journey takes nine hours, so you'll need to stay overnight. Then, take the bus to Caleta Olivia (5 hours), and finally, transfer to the bus to Puerto Deseado (3 hours).
Where to stay in Puerto Deseado? There aren't many accommodation options in Puerto Deseado, as the town itself is not very focused on tourism. This can be interesting as it provides a local experience. Sebastián rents out an Airbnb house in the center of Puerto Deseado with a kitchen, two bedrooms, a bathroom, and a sitting area, including good wifi.. Click here to view the house.
PUNTA TOMBO
Accessible only by private transport
The penguin colony of Punta Tombo is the world's largest continental colony of Magellanic penguins! Punta Tombo is a nature reserve protecting this colony, which can consist of up to 400,000 penguins. The colony extends along a 3-kilometer coastal strip, bordering a steppe landscape where penguins and guanacos coexist. You pay an entrance fee and proceed to the visitor center, which also has a small café. From there, you can follow a path of about 3 kilometers. This trail runs among the penguin nests and provides various viewpoints along the coastline. You'll see the penguins bustling back and forth between the sea and their nests, creating a kind of penguin highway!
PUERTO MADRYN
Accessible by public transport
A city with sandy beaches and a promenade lined with restaurants and beach bars. Everything mainly happens along the coast, where enjoyable markets take place on weekends, and from where you can book snorkeling, diving, and boat tours. Puerto Madryn overlooks the Golfo Nuevo bay, formed by the Península Valdés peninsula. Between June and December, southern right whales appear in this bay for breeding. During this season, you can book boat tours to spot these impressive creatures, but unfortunately, we were not in the right season. GetYourGuide offers a comprehensive tour, but it's also possible to gather information and get a feel for the many different agencies along the coast in Puerto Madryn that offer the tour.
Another unique activity you can book is snorkeling with sea lions! We booked this with Lobo Larsen Buceo and recommend this company for a crucial reason: they ensure that you never enter the sea lions' habitat and let the sea lions approach you, not the other way around. Where you go snorkeling is, in fact, a nature reserve. This means that the animals are protected, and while people are allowed to visit by snorkeling and diving, they must never disturb their habitat. Unfortunately, not all companies respect these rules, as we saw when we were in the water. You sail for half an hour to a point in the Punta Loma Nature Reserve where a population of about 600 sea lions lives. You spend 45 minutes in the water, and the sea lions are like underwater puppies, indeed coming to you to play! It's a super adorable and unique experience. You can also dive with sea lions, but since they come to you and swim at the water's surface, diving doesn't offer a better experience, and the costs are higher.
How to get to Puerto Madryn? From Jorge Newbery Airport in Buenos Aires, there are direct flights to El Tehuelche Airport in Puerto Madryn. It's also possible to take a bus from Buenos Aires to Puerto Madryn. This bus makes a stop in Viedma and takes a total of 18 hours. There's also a direct bus from San Carlos de Bariloche to Puerto Madryn, taking 15 hours.
Where to stay in Puerto Madryn? In the heart of the downtown and 700 meters from the beach is BELGRANO PtoMadryn, an apartment equipped with everything you need! In addition to the bedroom and bathroom, there's a fully equipped kitchen, air conditioning, wifi, and a balcony with views over the city.
PENINSULA VALDES
Accessible by public transport
For even more marine life, it's best to visit the Peninsula Valdés. This nature reserve is recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage site due to its ecological value. You pay an entrance fee at the gate, and then you arrive at the visitor center where you can learn about this region through films, maps, and informative panels. Visit this website for current entrance prices and more up-to-date information. You can also ask the park rangers questions, get stamps in your passport, and inquire about when they last saw orcas, where, and at what time. We continued our way to Punta Cantor, where you have a beautiful view of the ocean and, with some luck, can spot orcas swimming by. Unfortunately, we had to return to the junction to continue to Punta Norte since the road along Caleta Valdés was closed. Normally, at Caleta Valdés, you can spot penguins, sea lions, and elephant seals. Punta Norte is a place with a beautiful viewpoint over the coast, where penguins swim, and sea lions and elephants relax on the beach and swim alongside the penguins. But the most remarkable aspect of this place is the spectacle of orcas intentionally beaching themselves to hunt young sea lions.
Afterwards, we drove back to Puerto Pirámides, where we spent the night on the beach in our campervan. From here, the next day, we drove back via Punta Pirámides. You can stay overnight in Punta Pirámides and then spend another day or several days on the island. Punta Pirámides is also the only place where wild camping is allowed. Camping in the wild is prohibited on the rest of the island. The bumpy roads discouraged us from touring around for another day. Further on the island, you have Punta Delgada. Unfortunately, this area was closed during our visit. It might be a permanent closure, as it has become a fixed location for the naval base.
How to get to Peninsula Valdes? With your own transportation, you can easily drive from Puerto Madryn, take your time, and be aware that you need to drive slowly because the roads on the peninsula are unpaved. GetYourGuide among others, offers full-day tours to Peninsula Valdes, stopping at all the points mentioned above.
The coast of Argentina is among the most impressive places we have visited in Argentina. Curious about all 11 must-see attractions in Argentina? Click here for our blog!
Do you have any questions about places along the coast of Argentina, other destinations, or just want to have a friendly chat? Feel free to send us a message in the chat!
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