The mountain village of El Chaltén, located in Southern Argentina, has been declared the Argentine trekking capital. Not only did we undertake one of our most beautiful hikes here, the "Huemel Circuit," but we are also pleased to share all the information with you about El Chaltén and the rest of the trails.
The village is situated in a breathtaking environment and is thus a popular destination for hikers. It lies at the foot of Cerro Torre and Cerro Chaltén, also known as Cerro Fitzroy, and is named after the latter mountain range. Furthermore, the surroundings are known for the imposing Patagonian ice fields and Viedma glacier lake.
With a small, hospitable community of just 325 residents, El Chaltén exudes a warm and cozy atmosphere. Thanks to the numerous outdoor activities, the village is strongly focused on tourists, which adds to a lively ambiance. You'll find many restaurants and bars that contribute to the vibrant atmosphere.
Read here as we explore the hidden paths, admire the majestic peaks, and delve into everything that El Chaltén has to offer. We share our own experiences and tips to help you plan your own unforgettable journey to this extraordinary destination.
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El Chaltén's History: The Founding of the Town
The name "Chaltén" comes from the language of the Tehuelche, an indigenous people who inhabited the area of present-day Patagonia before the Europeans arrived. The word "Chaltén" means "smoking mountain," and the Tehuelche gave this name to the mountain, now known as Mount Fitz Roy, because of the nearly constant clouds around the peak that make it appear as though the mountain is smoking.
The name "Fitz Roy" was later given to the mountain by the European explorers of HMS Beagle. Robert FitzRoy, the captain of HMS Beagle, named the mountain in honor of himself during the expedition with Charles Darwin in the 1830s. However, the original name, "Chaltén," remains the name of the nearby village of El Chaltén, and many local residents and indigenous communities continue to call the mountain by this name. It serves as an enduring reminder of the area's rich indigenous history and culture.
The village was only officially founded in 1985, making it one of the youngest towns in Argentina. The founding was primarily strategic in nature to reinforce Argentine claims to the border area during territorial disputes with Chile.
Today, El Chaltén is a fascinating blend of historical charm and modern amenities. It's a place that bears witness to both its recent founding and its deep-rooted history in the Patagonian region.
Hiking in El Chaltén
The enchanting trails of El Chaltén invite hikers of all experience levels to explore this part of Patagonia. Whether you're a seasoned hiker looking for an adrenaline-boosting trek or a beginner yearning for a peaceful walk with breathtaking views, El Chaltén has something for everyone.
Upon entering El Chaltén, you'll immediately see the park rangers' visitor center on the left side. We recommend visiting this center to get a clear overview of all possible hiking trails. While a detailed map of the area is only available for purchase in El Chaltén's shops, you can find a photo below of a similar map showing all the hiking routes that start from El Chaltén. In the ranger station, there is also a map with all the routes that you can take a photo of. The park rangers can answer all your questions, provide useful tips, and go through the weather forecast with you. This way, you'll be fully prepared for your adventures in the beautiful nature surrounding El Chaltén.
Laguna Torre / Mirador Maestri
Distance: 18 kilometers / 22 kilometers
Duration: 6 hours
Elevation Gain: 300 meters
Difficulty: Moderate
Our exploration in El Chaltén began with the Laguna Torre trail, a picturesque route that combines forests, rivers, and views of glaciers. The endpoint, Cerro Torre, is adjacent to the enchanting glacier lake where imposing chunks of ice from the glacier float. By the lake, you can continue another 2 kilometers to Mirador Maestri, which offers a side and overhead view. The total round-trip distance is 18 kilometers (22 kilometers including Mirador Maestri), and the average duration is 6 hours. Along the way, you'll ascend about 300 meters on well-trodden paths. Take some time to soak in the beautiful surroundings and enjoy a snack before heading back.
We chose to cut through the Laguna Madre y Hija trail to the Laguna de Los Tres trail, a less-traveled path that provides an oasis of tranquility and crystal-clear water. It's 9 kilometers to Laguna Torre, and the shortcut is 8 kilometers. From there, you can hike and climb another 3 kilometers to Laguna de Los Tres, or hike 7 kilometers back to the village. We hiked back to the village to head out early the next day to hike Laguna de Los Tres and Cerro Fitz Roy!
For the adventurous, there are free camping sites along the various trails. These camping spots don't require reservations and offer basic amenities such as toilets. Water is available from the lakes, and you must bring your own equipment. An overnight stay at Campamento Poincenot or Campamento d'Agostini, followed by watching the sunrise over the mountains and their lakes, offers a magical experience! The other camping spot is Campamento Capri, located along the Laguna de Los Tres trail, a bit closer to the village. If camping in the wilderness by mountains and glacier lakes appeals to you, you can also rent camping equipment from local providers such as Camping Center and Viento Oeste.
Mirador de Los Condores & Mirador Las Aguilas
Distance: 4 kilometers for both viewpoints combined
Duration: 2 hours
Difficulty: Easy
Elevation Change: 150 meters
This hike begins at the visitor center in El Chaltén and is well-marked. The viewpoint to Mirador de Los Condores offers breathtaking views of the impressive Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre mountain ranges. It is a relatively short climb and is about 1 kilometer from the start. You can often see condors soaring on the thermals here, hence the name. After enjoying the view at Mirador de Los Condores, you can continue to Mirador Las Aguilas, another 2 kilometers further. This viewpoint offers a sweeping view of Lake Viedma and the surrounding steppe. 'Las Aguilas' means 'the eagles', and here too, there's a chance to see these magnificent birds in their natural habitat.
Laguna de Los Tres
Distance: 20 kilometers
Duration: 7-8 hours
Elevation Gain: 800 meters
Difficulty: Medium/Difficult
Our next hiking adventure took us to Laguna de Los Tres and Cerro Fitz Roy. We postponed our journey by a day to experience the area under a clear blue sky. We used Windguru as a weather program. In the search bar, you can search for the mountain you are heading to, to see what the weather is like there. The rangers also use this program and have added their own weather stations to it. If you, like us, have some extra time, I recommend undertaking the hikes on clear days. While the mountains are always beautiful, it can be disappointing if they are shrouded in clouds.
We started our hike before 8:00 am to avoid possible cloud cover in the afternoon. This trail, like many others in the region, is accessible and clearly marked. The difficulty level is often described as "difficult," mainly because of the last stretch of about 2km, which goes steeply uphill over rocks. On clear days, it can also become quite warm by that time, so it's essential to take your time and drink plenty of water.
The view of Cerro Fitz Roy and Laguna de Los Tres is simply indescribable. Allow yourself all the time to take in this natural wonder and the surrounding beauty. However, bear in mind that there is almost always a strong wind, and you can cool down quickly after an intensive hike. We recommend taking a windbreaker with you. Once you arrive at Laguna de Los Tres, you can also walk along the lake to the left to a viewpoint that offers views of both Fitz Roy and the lower lake in the canyon. It's an experience you won't soon forget and is highly recommended for anyone wanting to experience the natural splendor of Patagonia!
Loma del Pliegue Tumbado
Distance: 18 kilometers
Duration: 7 hours
Elevation Gain: 1000 meters
Difficulty: Medium
This hike begins at the visitor center and is indicated on the signs. The trail to the left leads to the previously mentioned Mirador de Los Condores & Mirador Las Aguilas, and the trail to the right to Loma del Pliegue Tumbado. This is also the starting point of the Huemel Circuit. It's a less popular hike than Laguna Torres and Laguna de Los Tres, offering you the opportunity to soak in the pure nature and enjoy the imposing view with just a handful of people. Start the hike early again to increase this opportunity.
During the trail, you hike steadily upwards, so you don't feel like you're climbing much. The first few kilometers take you through a dense forest, filled with indigenous lenga trees and other local vegetation, and you feel at one with nature for a moment. After the forest, you reach open fields with lush, alpine vegetation. Here, you get your first glimpse of the surrounding valleys and the Río de las Vueltas, which meanders through the landscape. As you continue to climb, the landscape changes into a mix of shrubs and rocky paths. You begin to see some of the famous peaks, such as Cerro Torre and Cerro Fitz Roy, looming in the distance. The last stretch of the trail rises a little more and is marked with yellow poles.
Once at the top, you are rewarded with an unparalleled 360-degree panoramic view! You are able to see Cerro Fitz Roy, Cerro Torre, the valley of the Río Tunel, and even the vast Viedma Lake. A unique view!
Chorillo del Salto
Distance: 6 kilometers
Duration: 1 hour
Elevation Gain: none
Difficulty: Easy
Between the more strenuous hikes, this relaxed trail offers a path to a beautiful waterfall. The waterfall is about 20 meters high and cascades down over a series of rocks. The water, originating from the glaciers in the area, has an icy, crystal-clear appearance. You can hike to this spot, but also cycle or even drive by car. The path is very accessible, and the surroundings, like the entire area, are breathtaking. You'll walk the first part on the same path as where cars drive, so if it's busy, you may encounter dust clouds from passing cars on the sandy road. However, after this first section, the path continues on a route that is only for pedestrians. Bring your lunchbox and enjoy a picnic by the waterfall!
The Huemel circuit
Step out of your comfort zone and discover the pristine beauty of Los Glaciers National Park. The Huemel Circuit is an unforgettable trail through one of the world's most spectacular landscapes. It's a 60-kilometer trail that is often completed in 4 days. You can undertake this trail on your own, or it's also possible to go with a guide. During the Huemel Circuit, you'll brave 2 ziplines and steep mountain passes, walk on a glacier, admire the Patagonian ice fields, and sleep beside a glacial lake. It's a trail that requires some preparation, but for anyone who wants to hike it, it's possible. This circuit has left a profound impression on us and is our favorite trek in Patagonia; we're excited to share all the ins and outs in our next blog!
Staying in El Chaltén
Whether you want to dive into a tent after a hike or prefer a more luxurious apartment, El Chaltén has something for everyone.
Many campgrounds in El Chaltén consist of a backyard where you can park your car, camper, or tent, and offer basic facilities. The best camping spot is Camping El Relincho, where there is more space. Moreover, there are hot showers, a kitchen, a communal area, electricity, and wifi available.
An affordable option for a good stay in El Chaltén is Rancho Grande. This farmhouse-style hostel with mountain views offers a range of sleeping options, ranging from cozy private rooms to shared dormitories. The prices vary from $140 for a double room with a private bathroom, including breakfast, to $42 for a bunk bed in a dormitory, also including breakfast. Therefore, it suits every budget. There's a communal kitchen and a space where travelers can meet. Click here to book your room.
More luxurious, quieter, and more private is Andino Aparts. This complex offers modernly furnished apartments with everything you need, from fully equipped kitchenettes to comfortable living areas. The comfortable beds, reliable wifi, and included breakfast make the stay even more pleasant. In addition, they offer daily cleaning service and parking. There are double rooms available, as well as family rooms for four people. The prices range from $189 for two people to $238 for family rooms for four people. Book your stay in this apartment here.
Traveling with your own van? We stayed on the parking lot opposite the park rangers' visitor center for a week ourselves. The square was filled with vans all week, but camping in a tent on the adjoining grass field is not allowed. There is a toilet available at the back of the grass field, and the visitor center's sanitary facilities are open during opening hours. There's also a tap at the visitor center where hikers can refill their bottles, and camper vans can fill their water tanks.
Restaurants in El Chaltén
In El Chaltén, as previously mentioned, you'll find an abundance of dining options, concentrated in just two streets. There's something for everyone, so after a day of hiking, you can look for what you like, and you'll undoubtedly find it. We recommend the following places.
Parallel to the main street "San Martin" lies "Jose Antonio Rojo," a street with fewer but very pleasant establishments. Here you'll find PAISA High Mountain Coffee, which serves excellent coffee - something rare in Patagonia and thus extra enjoyable. You can also indulge in delicious pastries and breakfast/lunch dishes.
For lovers of grilled meat and fish, there's La Tapera, an idyllic wooden mountain hut. Not only is excellent meat and fish served here, but the friendly and attentive staff are also commendable. The menu also offers sorrentini's (stuffed pasta) and delicious homemade desserts. The prices here are a bit higher.
If you're looking for a restaurant with good value for money and an informal, cozy atmosphere, then Ahonikenk is the place for you. Here they serve typical Argentine dishes like steak and milanesas (Schnitzel), and the wine is served in penguin-shaped pitchers!
After a hike, it's worth stopping by Panadería y Confitería Los Salteños to score a well-deserved snack. The empanadas are fresh, flavorful, and generously filled.
Whether it's the warm weather or the extensive walking, the ice cream from Heladería Domo Blanco stays with us! This ice cream shop sells fantastic homemade ice cream and offers a wide choice of different, original flavors.
Keep in mind that in El Chaltén, all restaurants and supermarkets adhere to the Blue dollar rate. If you don't make use of this, prices can be extremely high. Although there is no Western Union in El Chaltén, you can exchange your euros and dollars at various places. There are even local residents who are happy to exchange with you for pesos. Bills of $100 or €100 in perfect condition are the easiest to exchange. Credit card companies like Mastercard and Visa now also offer the advantageous blue dollar rate.
Traveling to El Chaltén: Flying, Bus, or Personal Transportation
Flying to El Chaltén
The nearest airport is in El Calafate, about 200 kilometers from El Chaltén. Flying to El Calafate is possible from Buenos Aires, with daily flights starting at €151. Flights from cities like Bariloche and Mendoza make a stopover in Buenos Aires. For current flight times and prices, visit the Skyscanner website.
Traveling by Bus
El Calafate is a vital transportation hub for travelers wanting to visit Los Glaciares National Park. There are regular bus services between El Calafate and El Chaltén, and this bus ride takes an average of 3.5 hours. These services usually run several times a day. If you're coming from a farther city like Bariloche, Puerto Natales, or even Buenos Aires, you can make a stopover or transfer in El Calafate. Various bus companies offer services to El Chaltén. Tickets can be purchased at the bus station in El Calafate, or you can reserve them online in advance through Plataforma 10 and Busbud. Particularly during the high season, it's often wise to book in advance.
Organized Tours
Many tour operators offer guided trips from El Calafate to El Chaltén. This can be a good option if you want to leave the transportation organization to someone else and learn more about the region through a guide. A well-known tour operator example is Patagonia Dreams. Besides this larger provider, many local agencies in El Calafate can organize custom-made tours to El Chaltén. It may be worthwhile to inquire with different providers to find the right tour to meet your specific interests and needs.
Car Rental / Personal Transportation
If you don't have personal transportation but still want the freedom to create your own schedule and explore the surroundings at your own pace, you can rent a car in El Calafate and drive to El Chaltén. Europcar, located at the airport, offers the possibility to travel directly from the airport to El Chaltén. Of the 214 kilometers you have to cover, 70 kilometers are unpaved, which may cause some delay. However, the ride offers beautiful views of the landscape and gets you in the mood for everything you'll see and experience in El Chaltén.
For tips, questions, more inspiration, or a friendly conversation, feel free to send us a message via chat!
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