Estacion Biosferica del Beni is a national biosphere reserve located about 100 km east of Madidi National Park. Situated near the small town of San Borja, this park laid the foundation for some of our most remarkable and unique experiences during our journey through South America. The park, which is part of SERNAP (Servicio Nacional de Áreas Protegidas), is partially open to tourists, but in a adventurous and special way. The park rangers of del Beni offer you the opportunity to visit the park through volunteering.
THE PARK THROUGH THE YEARS
Since its acquisition by SERNAP in 1998, the park has been continuously evolving to restore its former glory. Before SERNAP took over, for 12 years, it was Bolivia's most biodiverse park, and thanks to collaborations with scientific universities in Bolivia, there was a generous influx of funding. At the time, the park was home to about 80 researchers and park rangers and attracted biologists from all over the world. Today, however, the team consists of only 10 park rangers, and the encampments within the park urgently need restoration. The government allocates only 23% of the total annual required budget to all national parks in the country. They try to obtain the rest of the funding through international networks and organizations, including collaborations with UNICEF and other international nature organizations.
However, international organizations only fund specific projects, such as the turtle project or new initiatives to protect nearly extinct fish species. Not only must it be detailed where the money is going, but the complicated bureaucracy from the SERNAP headquarters makes obtaining these funds challenging. Moreover, the 23% from the government isn't guaranteed every year, as this budget often rotates between the various national parks. All this comes at the expense of the animals, local communities, and the protection of the park itself.
Marcos, the park's chief ranger, tries to raise donations and gifts by setting up a volunteer program. These are needed for daily necessities such as gasoline for the boats, food and drink during expeditions, and urgent restoration work. As a volunteer, you can contribute to the daily tasks of the park rangers. In return for your efforts or a financial contribution, they take you to the park's most unique places. You visit the indigenous communities along the river and discover the rich flora and fauna the park has to offer.
VISITING THE PARK
The rangers have a main office in San Borja, and within the park, there are three ranger stations. The most accessible stations are El Porvenir and Los Petos. Since the rangers are not a travel agency, they expect you to specify how many days you want to spend in the park and what you'd like to see and do.
DURATION
We recommend staying for at least 3 days. This is not just to give more back to the rangers who invest a lot of effort into you, but also because your experience will be richer if you can spend multiple days in the park. Of course, you can stay much longer; we even stayed for 14 days!
On the day of your arrival in San Borja, you'll visit the park rangers' office. Here, you'll likely meet some of the rangers and Rolando, the park's director. The atmosphere feels like coming home: they are extremely friendly and happy to see you, and you'll immediately feel at ease. However, note that Marcos is the only one who speaks English. If he's not around and you don't speak Spanish, communication can become challenging.
So, you have the freedom to spend as many days as you'd like with the park rangers of del Beni.
The most logical choice is to head to Los Petos for a few days. This ranger station is located in the heart of the jungle but at the beginning of the Maniqui river. This station serves as a base for boat trips to visit the various communities along the river, where you can admire the rich flora and fauna.
You can extend your stay by spending a day at El Porvenir. This station is further to the east and deeper into the wetlands. This place is special because of Laguna Normandia, where you can spot black caimans.
The third camp, Marimono, is located at the end of the river and is a less common choice. Not only are rangers often not stationed here, but it's also a full day's boat ride away, and the facilities are very limited. Logistically, it's a complicated choice for volunteers.
From late August to early September, there's also the turtle project at Estancias Espiritu. The rangers then drive with a group of 5 people from San Borja across the plains to the Yucuma river. If you plan to go during this time, you can allocate an extra five days for this project. Of course, you can also go just for this project, resulting in a stay of about a week.
THE CAMPS
The main office in San Borja is where the rangers gather, delegate tasks, and pick up new supplies before heading out to the camps. As a volunteer or visitor, you can stay overnight in one of the available rooms. This is convenient if, for example, you want to rest before or after your trip to one of the camps. The office is centrally located, making it easy for shopping. For instance, we picked up some Paceña beers and food for a few days, which we then shared with the rangers.
Los Petos: This is the most commonly visited camp. You can reach it using your transportation or a van, or you can ride with the park rangers. The camp is located at the beginning of the river and has a large ranger building. Inside, there's a small indoor area with a kitchen and a bathroom equipped with a toilet and shower. Don't expect luxury, but you can rinse off and use the toilet comfortably. Around the building, they have a garden where they grow various trees and plants for local communities. This isn't an active project, so, as a volunteer, you can engage with it daily. They also have a large "beach" where they allow collected turtle eggs to hatch annually, aiming to improve the turtle population in the rivers. If you come with your van, you can sleep in it. Otherwise, sleeping options are limited to camping, although the rangers can provide a tent and mattress for you.
El Porvenir: This camp is located on a major road, about 50 km east of San Borja. Beds are available, and there's a small kitchen in the camp. You can also comfortably park your van here. This camp serves as a base for boat trips through the wetlands and lagoons.
Marimono: This camp is situated at the end of the river from San Borja. We haven't been there, and according to the park rangers, it's not a common choice. There are no facilities, and the rangers who go there often stay for extended periods. Organizing logistics by boat is challenging.
Estancias Espiritu: This site is only visited in August and September due to the turtle project. The camp is close to the Estancias Espiritu community, one of many cattle farms in the area. The journey there involves intense sandy roads and takes approximately 7 hours, but it's unique because of the distinctive animals you encounter along the way. Nature can progress relatively undisturbed here, despite the fact that much of the rainforest has been cleared for cattle farming, turning the area more into a steppe than the jungle it once was. The camp is basic: you can only camp there, you shower in the Yucuma river amidst the caimans, and nature itself is your toilet. Regarding food, the rangers bring plenty of staple products like rice, vegetables for salads, flour, eggs, and even meat. Every day, everyone cooked together, introducing dishes to one another. We made curries, Dutch pancakes, and Spanish tortillas, while the rangers prepared rice with piranhas caught from the river and the Bolivian version of pancakes! At the nearby Estancias Espiritu, you can do some basic shopping if necessary.
THE TASKS
Since the volunteer opportunities on offer are still in a startup phase, it can be a process of feeling each other out for both parties. Therefore, initiatives are always welcome, and post-evaluation is appreciated. They don't have fixed projects for volunteers to focus on yet; for now, the tasks primarily involve cleaning up, restoring, and garden maintenance, such as watering plants or repotting them. Additionally, the afternoon temperatures can be quite high, which means that the work mainly takes place in the morning or late afternoon.
Monitoring the river and the communities aims to record animal species and demonstrate the park rangers' presence within these communities. It also provides you with the opportunity to visit these communities. These are places that only a handful of tourists have visited, making it a unique experience. Furthermore, there's a considerable difference in modernity between these communities.
Because you are accompanying the park rangers, no day is the same, and unforeseen events can occur. On our first day, for instance, a report came in about a forest fire in the wetlands near El Porvenir, and we were asked if we wanted to help. We enthusiastically said yes. Before we knew it, we were dressed in firefighting gear, carrying 30 liters of water on our backs, and holding a paddle to beat out the fire. We struggled through the swamp for an hour to reach the source of the fire. This swamp, which is home to the park's alligators and snakes, is prone to fires. These are often caused by local fishermen who, for example, throw away their cigarette or prepare lunch on open flames. This experience, which was entirely safe thanks to the expertise of the park rangers, was a unique opportunity for us. Who can now say that they have fought a forest fire in a national park!
WHAT YOU GET IN RETURN
By volunteering, possibly in combination with a donation, or simply by giving a donation, you not only receive one of the most unique experiences. You also get the opportunity to visit communities that still live in a very traditional way. This offers the chance to experience the culture of society in its purest and rawest form. Moreover, you can spot countless animals. You also get the unique opportunity to work alongside national park rangers and experience their activities up close. The park rangers, some of whom have been working there since the park's establishment, have extensive knowledge of nature, local communities, history, and current challenges. Their insights provide a complete picture, making you quickly feel involved with the park. The entire experience is quite unique, and as far as we know, the only place where this can happen. For us, this was one of the most unique experiences we've had in South America.
DONATIONS
If you'd like to visit the place but have less interest in volunteering, you can always get in touch with Marcos. Based on a donation, you can discuss visiting the communities or perhaps go to El Porvenir to see the black caimans.
The donations are used, for example, to cover the costs of fuel needed for the boat trips or other daily necessities. Marcos is very transparent and professional in this regard. He will not only provide feedback on what your donation has been used for but also guarantee that it is used 100% for necessities or improvements to the camps.
THE TURTLE PROJECT
Each year, from August to September, is the period when the river turtles lay their eggs on the riverbanks. Because these eggs are highly sought after for consumption and sale by both the local and indigenous communities, they are often collected by locals during this time. Due to a lack of knowledge and the focus on the money one can get for the eggs, the turtle population would be threatened with extinction if nothing were done. That's why the park rangers also collect the laid eggs during this period to let them hatch in a safe place at Los Petos.
This also happens at Estancias Espiritu on the Yucuma river, a different river than the one at Los Petos. This is because the population in this river is still relatively high and there are few locals who take the eggs. During these days, you go by boat both early in the morning and late in the evening, when the moon is down, to search the riverbanks for turtle nests. The eggs are collected in plastic buckets and are transported to Los Petos by car after a few days. Sometimes the park rangers also search the river near Los Petos, but since the turtle population is low here, it is a less suitable location.
The eggs hatch after a period of 3 to 4 months, depending on the temperatures, usually around December and January. The majority of the turtles are released around Los Petos, where the population is critical. Another part goes back to Espiritu. So, if you're in the area during this time, you can help release the turtles.
According to Marcos, a different approach might be needed in the future, as this is still a project that has not been extensively researched. The turtle population in the Maniqui river is not only threatened by the consumption of eggs by the local population but also by the water quality which is affected by the many boats and pollution. This causes the turtles to move further into the river. At the moment, they are doing what they can and what they believe is right to maintain the population. However, better education for the communities and understanding their impact could contribute to a healthy turtle population in the Maniqui river in the future.
Are you excited by this story and do you have any questions or would you like to get in touch with Marcos? Please send us a message in the chat!
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