If you're looking for the ultimate trekking experience in Patagonia, the Huemul Circuit in El Chaltén is definitely a top choice. This 60-kilometer trail typically takes about 4 days to complete, and throughout the journey, you are continually greeted with breathtaking scenes. You'll find yourself constantly in a picturesque environment with few other hikers around. And when you reach the viewpoint of the Southern Patagonian Ice Fields after a zipline and braving the challenging Paso del Viento, the view is simply indescribable.
Though it's a challenging route, it's certainly achievable for enthusiastic hikers who know how to prepare for a multi-day trek. No specific technical or climbing experience is required. In this blog, you'll read about how we prepared and what our experience on the trail was like.
THE TRAIL
The Huemul Circuit offers a variety of challenges over four days, including crossing rivers via a zipline, hiking across a glacier, braving a windy mountain pass, and undertaking one of your steepest descents. The absolute highlight of the trail is the panoramic view of the Southern Patagonian Ice Fields, the third largest contiguous ice field in the world! While this trail is filled with adventure and unforgettable moments, it's essential to understand that information about the route primarily needs to be gathered on one's own initiative. This is because the trail is not officially marked at the park rangers' visitor center. The route is deliberately unmarked to avoid making it too accessible. Hikers must assess for themselves whether they have the necessary experience to embark on this adventure; the park rangers provide no guidance on this matter. However, if you decide to take on the challenge, the park rangers are, of course, available to answer your questions.
In the continuation of this blog, we've laid out a detailed overview of the trail on a day-to-day basis. We also offer tips on how best to prepare and which essentials you must not forget.
Distance: 65 kilometers
Duration: 26 hours
Difficulty Level: Difficult
Day 1
Ranger Station - Campamento Torro
Distance: 15 kilometers
Duration: 6 hours
The first day is a pleasant introduction. Since it takes a maximum of 6 hours, we started at 10:30 am to ensure we reached the camp before dinner time. This gives you the morning to pack your belongings and have a good breakfast! Your backpack might feel heavy on the first day, but the path is easily navigable and has a gradual ascent of about 600 meters. The initial route is the same as the Loma del Pliegue trail, which we discuss in detail in our blog about El Chaltén. Eventually, you'll reach a fork: straight ahead continues the Loma del Pliegue trail, while to the left is the continuation of the Huemul Circuit. As you ascend, you'll enjoy stunning views of Lake Viedma and catch glimpses of the peaks of the famous Cerro Torre and Cerro Fitz Roy. After the highest point, there's a river crossing up to about shin-deep, after which you enter the breathtaking "Tunel river valley". This area boasts beautiful natural features like the crystal-clear Tunel river, the Torro lagoon, the Tunel glacier, and the Paso del Viento. You'll also find the first campsite here: Campamento Torro. The camp offers basic toilet facilities, around 20 camping spots, and fresh water from the river.
Day 2
Campamento Torro - Refugio Paso del Viento
Distance: 12 kilometers
Duration: 6 hours
On the second day, the river crossing with the zipline, crossing the glacier, and the high peak of Paso del Viento are on the agenda! We got up early and started the trail at 07:00 am so that we could take our time throughout the day to enjoy the views. You'll soon reach a section where you need to climb over rocks. At this part, it's advisable to have your navigation app handy, as the path isn't clearly marked and the stone stacks that people have laid down are not accurate. Next, you'll reach the river crossing with the zipline. In El Chaltén, most people rent the necessary equipment for this: a harness with a steel carabiner, an aluminum carabiner, and a safety rope. The zipline consists of a steel cord that spans the river from one side to the other with a pulley attached.
After the zipline, adrenaline rushes through your body as you head towards the ascent of the Paso del Viento. Before you actually start climbing, you first walk over a moraine and then descend towards the glacier. A moraine consists of pulverized rock formed by the grinding action of a glacier. You often find this type of rock around glaciers, and it's partially carried along by the glacier itself. Walking on the glacier is a unique experience! Based on our experience, we recommend leaving the moraine as quickly as possible and hiking via the glacier. The higher you are on the moraine, the more difficult and dangerous it becomes to reach the glacier. Moreover, the glacier is constantly shifting, meaning the best route can change and the slideshow from the park rangers becomes outdated. Therefore, consider seeking current advice from the park rangers and assess the situation yourself on the spot. Although we didn't use crampons, they can probably offer additional safety and ease. At the end of the glacier, you'll see a trail leading upward; this path takes you to the top of the Paso del Viento. The climb requires energy, but the views are genuinely breathtaking. Take the time to pause and savor the surrounding landscape, mountain lakes, and snow-capped peaks. The highlight is undoubtedly the view over the Patagonian ice fields. It gives you an overwhelming realization of the unique environment you're in, with only your tent and backpack as companions!
Tip: Atop the Paso del Viento, it can be quite windy and often freezing cold. Therefore, it's advisable to take a break just before you reach the summit, perhaps for lunch.
After crossing the pass, you descend until you reach a stream that flows to the camp: Refugio Paso del Viento. There are about 10 spots for tents, and you can fetch water from the river. There isn't a toilet available, but there's an emergency shelter to take refuge in. Due to the limited number of good sleeping spots, it's advisable to arrive not too late.
Day 3
Refugio Paso del Viento - Lago Viedma
Distance: 16 kilometers
Duration: 7 hours
The temperature at this location, surrounded by ice fields, is significantly lower. Wearing gloves in the morning is certainly not superfluous! The path continues through the mountains, alongside a lake, while the panoramic views of the Patagonian ice fields keep astonishing you. Step by step, you climb to the next mountain pass: Paso Huemul. Although this pass is less extensive and steep than the previous day's, it remains a challenging ascent, and the terrain is rocky. The trail is sometimes narrow with a deep drop-off, so ensure you don't trek here during strong gusts of wind. The higher you ascend, the more impressive becomes the view of the stunning, azure-blue Viedma glacier lake. And with some luck, condors might fly overhead at this stretch! After the summit awaits the next adventure: for us, it was the steepest descent we've ever undertaken. The path is narrow and overgrown, and our tactic was to swing from tree to tree and from root to root! Additionally, there are two sections where you need to descend alongside a rock wall using a rope.
This last campsite offers another unique camping experience. You sleep next to the breathtaking Lake Viedma, where massive ice blocks float and occasionally break apart with loud crashes. Upon our arrival, there were firefighters and park rangers present due to a recent, severe fire. While the fire was under control, the emergency personnel camped out to monitor the situation. Their food was brought in by boat, and to our surprise, we ended up with leftover fries during our four-day trek! The vast area of scorched nature was saddening to witness. Little rabbits hopped around amid the black ash. It's a reminder to everyone: don't burn toilet paper, don't light open fires in nature, and don't discard cigarette butts. The camp can accommodate about 10 tents. Water is available from the lake, but there are no toilets or shelters. Again, it's advisable to arrive early, as if the camp is full, it's possible to camp three kilometers further on the beach.
Day 4
Lake Viedma - Bahia Tunel/ El Chalten
Distance: 20 - 26 kilometers
Duration: 7 - 8 hours
On this last day, we woke up extra early to admire the sunrise and watch how the sky and the ice peaks changed in color, ranging from soft hues to deep red. After this natural spectacle, we packed our stuff for the last time and began the fourth day. This day is relatively relaxed in terms of altitude difference, and the river crossing via the zipline is simpler than on the second day. What makes it challenging is the long distance, especially if you, like us, walk back to El Chaltén. The trail goes through the pampa and to your right, you continue to see Lake Viedma, while you cross the mountains as straight as possible. The route can sometimes be unclear due to the many animal paths, so it's advisable to keep your navigation app handy. Eventually, you descend towards the Rio Túnel, where, just like on day 2, you cross the river with a zipline.
When you arrive at Bahía Túnel shortly thereafter, you've officially completed the trail! However, you still have about 6 kilometers to go to reach El Chaltén, across hilly terrain. Knowing the end is in sight makes the last kilometers challenging. But the sense of accomplishment when you check in with the park rangers is something you'll never forget!
IN & OUT'S ABOUT THE ZIPLINES
When you arrive at the zipline, it can look quite overwhelming. The cord stretches high between two rocks, directly over the river. But once you know what to do, it's not so bad and you'll easily and safely get to the other side.
First and foremost, ensure that everything is securely attached in your backpack and that nothing can fall out. Then, put on your harness. Make sure the straps are tight around your legs and waist and walk to the start of the zipline. If you're lucky, the pulley will be on your side. If not, attach your carabiners directly to the steel cable and pull yourself calmly across to retrieve the pulley. Then attach the 35-meter-long rope to the pulley. This allows the pulley to be retrieved from the other side. We used two ropes: one to pull the pulley back and another to pull the crossing person up the last stretch. If you stop too soon and need to pull yourself up, someone who has already crossed can assist with the rope.
In the slideshow displayed at the visitor center, you'll see that you attach the aluminum carabiner to the pulley and the steel one (as a backup) to the steel cord. It's crucial that you never touch the steel cord during the crossing to prevent injuries. There are different ways to get your backpack across: on your back, attached to the steel carabiner, or first cross without the backpack and have someone else attach your backpack to the pulley, so you can pull it across. We wore ours on our backs, but this slowed us down, and we had to pull ourselves up the last bit. We also saw someone flip upside down because her backpack became too heavy. Therefore, we recommend pulling backpacks across with the pulley! Once you arrive on the other side, it's vital to ensure you're securely positioned before detaching your carabiners.
PREPARATION
Proper preparation is essential for the Huemul Circuit. You'll be heading into the mountains for four days where the weather can be unpredictable, the trail isn't always clear, and you'll need specialized equipment to cross rivers. Below is a checklist you can use while planning for the trail:
Download AllTrails or maps.me on your phone. There are times when a clear path indicates your way, but often there are no markings. Hence, a navigation app is indispensable. With maps.me, you can download the Huemul Circuit area so you can view the trail offline. We're personally big fans of AllTrails. However, for this app, you need a subscription to download the trails and view them offline. AllTrails also allows you to track your hike, letting you see the distance you cover, the elevation gain, and your hiking duration.
Check the weather forecast. Park rangers use Windguru to monitor the weather at Paso del Viento, the mountain pass on day 2. You can keep an eye on this yourself and always approach the rangers with any questions. Ideally, you want favorable weather conditions for the four days: with little wind, few clouds, and no rain. "Paso del Viento" translates to "wind pass," so you can imagine that it's not the place to be during strong winds.
Rent equipment for the zipline and other necessary items. For the river crossing, each person needs: one harness, one steel carabiner, one aluminum carabiner, one safety strap, and one 35-meter cord. We rented these items from Viento Oeste. Make sure you're aware of the time by which you need to return the equipment on the last day to avoid extra charges.
Properly prepare your food and drinks for the 4 days. You're often surrounded by glacier water – the tastiest water you'll ever drink. So you don't have to worry about water. A breakdown of our food and drink is provided in the "packing list for food and drink" section below.
Before you leave, check in with the park rangers at the visitor center and ask to watch the slideshow with all the information about the trek. As mentioned earlier, the trail is not marked anywhere. However, the park rangers can provide you with the necessary information. A slideshow is available describing each day, including elevation changes and how to use the harness and carabiners. Take photos of the slides so you can refer to them on your mobile during the trek.
PACKING LIST
Below you will find two expandable lists divided into "hiking and camping equipment" and "food and drink". In these lists, we describe the contents of our backpack and what we found essential. What you need remains personal, but with these lists, you're well-prepared for the hike.
Regarding clothing, it's wise to dress in layers because the mountain weather can vary significantly. Although we always hiked without trekking poles, we strongly recommend them for this trip. They offer support during ascents, distribute the weight of your backpack more evenly, and thereby relieve your back. Moreover, they provide better balance on technical sections.
In terms of food and drink, we believe a good breakfast is essential. It leaves you feeling full and energetic all morning. For lunch, consider areas with strong winds: preparing a meal on your gas stove might not be practical. However, every evening, you can cook on gas at the designated camping spots. We often prepare dinner in advance and cook easy dishes like pasta and couscous on the other nights. A lighter but slightly more expensive option is to buy freeze-dried meals; you only need to add boiling water! In the various outdoor stores in El Chaltén, you can find these packets with different meal options.
Packing List for Hiking and Camping Equipment
Backpack
Trekking Poles
Tent
Sleeping pad
Sleeping bag
Inflatable pillow
Cooking gas and stove
Lighter
Windshield/Windscreen
Swiss pocket knife
Knife, spoon, fork
Cup/Mug
Cleaning sponge
Water bottle (with filter) or hydration bladder
Trash bags for waste and toilet paper
Mobile phone
Power bank
Headlamp
Sunscreen
Toothbrush + toothpaste
Toilet paper
Blister plasters
Disinfectant
Loperamide
Paracetamol
Underwear
Hiking shoes
Hiking socks
Hiking leggings/ pants
Sweater
Thermal shirt
T-shirts
Water/windproof jacket
Cap
Beanie or hat
Gloves
Sunglasses
Quick-drying towel
Washbag/Wash pouch
Packing list for food and drinks
OPPORTUNITIES WITH A GUIDE
Have you become excited, but don't have experience with multi-day hikes? It is also possible to undertake the trail, or parts of it, with a guide. For instance, Walk Patagonia offers a three-day journey starting from El Chaltén to tackle the Paso del Viento for panoramic views over the Patagonian ice fields and then to return.
The Huemul Trek is among the most impressive places we have visited in Argentina. Curious about all 11 must-see attractions in Argentina? Click here for our blog!
For questions about the Huemul Circuit, other hikes in El Chaltén, or just a friendly chat, you can always send us a message via the chat!
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